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Portrait from the SS20 collection campaign with a male model obscured by warm yellow and purple motion-blur lighting.

SS20 Menswear

Nothing Burns Like the Cold
Scope
Creative Direction Collection Development Print Design 3D Prototyping Art Direction Show Production & Activation Strategic Partnerships
Team
Zheqiang Zhang, Creative Director & Lead Designer Katharina Buczek, Assistant Designer Longfei Wang, Photography & Film Anders Marcussen, Model Quentin Richard, Intern Verge Sport, Technical Partner
Timeline & Status

4.5 Months, Launched in August 2019

Overview

Nothing Burns Like the Cold was a collection centered on the rituals of superstition, combining traditional tailoring with technical fabrication and detailing.

I led the end-to-end creative and technical direction—establishing the visual identity while building a custom 3D prototyping workflow to compress lead times and execute cut-ready handoffs across a new supplier network.

Its debut received coverage from major publications including Schön! and Hypebeast, alongside wholesale orders from two global stockists.

HIGHLIGHTS

A fourteen-look collection combining traditional tailoring and technical fabrication, shaped by superstition and the small rituals people use to cope with uncertainty.

Seven menswear looks from PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020, combining tailored silhouettes with technical sportswear pieces.
0.1 Looks 01 – 07.
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Seven additional PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 menswear looks, showing technical outerwear, layered tailoring, and performance-inspired garments.
0.2 Looks 08 – 14.
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3D product development workflow for PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020, showing a virtual garment prototype, print-management board, and generated design variations.
0.3 Custom 3D pipeline.
IMAGE
Back view of a model wearing a beige Mackintosh coat with a large illustrated floral hand-print panel from PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020.
0.4 Mackintosh print detail.
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Model wearing a black short-sleeve intarsia knit top with dark green floral graphics from PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020.
0.5 Intarsia knit detail.
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Model wearing an all-black PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 look standing inside a floral installation during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
0.6 SS20 Copenhagen Fashion Week.
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Guest holding a bouquet inside the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 floral installation during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
0.7 SS20 presentation, guest participation.
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CONTEXT

Evening the odds.

Tiny rituals for coping with uncertainty.

Knocking on wood or carrying a charm doesn’t guarantee anything, but they make the unknown feel more manageable.

This collection is shaped by those superstitions and the consequences of leaving things up to chance.

Hand scratching a PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 lottery-style show invite with a one-euro coin.
1.1 Scratch-off show invite.
IMAGE
Silver cornicello charm necklace worn over a black t-shirt.
1.2 Neapolitan cornicello talisman.
IMAGE

CONSTRAINTS

Navigating a fragmented supply chain.

An aggressively tight development window.

Developing the collection on a bootstrapped budget was further complicated by the lack of existing factory relationships and production patterns.

To compress lead times, we abandoned linear development—sampling concurrently across a new network of global suppliers.

Four and a half month project timeline showing overlapping phases from concept development through show production.
2.1 Project timeline.
IMAGE
Custom 3D workflow.

The goal was to provide factories with decisions—not questions. That meant testing digital prototypes against physical toiles before any sampling began.

By dialing in the fit upfront, we could hand off cut-ready DXF files along with sew-by samples. This gave our production partners the clarity to deliver show samples with minimal revisions.

Custom 3D development workflow showing a garment prototype in Blender alongside technical views for PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020.
2.2 Custom 3D development environment.
IMAGE

THE LINEUP

More than just visual contrast.

Bridging performance with tradition.

In Copenhagen, everyday practicality shapes the way people dress. Between cycling and the unpredictable weather, a fully tailored look rarely survives a whole day of moving through the city.

Layering tailored pieces and casual wovens directly over technical base layers ensured the styling remained wearable, not just conceptual.

Show base layers
Look 01 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a grey double-breasted racing jacket with matching wide-leg pleated trousers, layered over a purple cashmere T-shirt and styled with black sandals.Look 01 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a purple short-sleeve cashmere knit top, grey wide-leg pleated trousers, and black sandals.
1.0
Look 01
1.1
DB racing jacket
1.2
Mongolian cashmere tee
1.3
Double pleated wide trousers
Look 02 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a black cotton poplin Hawaiian shirt and black water-repellent ripstop shorts, layered over a purple graphic compression raglan T-shirt and styled with black sandals.Look 02 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a purple graphic compression T-shirt with checkerboard sleeve detail, black water-repellent ripstop shorts, and black sandals.
2.0
Look 02
2.1
Cotton poplin Hawaiian
2.2
Compression raglan tee
2.3
Water-repellent ripstop shorts
Look 03 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a lavender, black, and grey printed silk-cotton Hawaiian shirt, black double-pleated wide trousers, and black sandals.
3.0
Look 03
3.1
Printed silk / cotton Hawaiian
3.2
Double pleated wide trousers
Look 04 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a purple graphic compression raglan T-shirt, black compression tights with neon ankle cuffs, and black sandals.
4.0
Look 04
4.1
Compression raglan tee
4.2
Compression tights
Look 05 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a black printed double-breasted racing jacket with a green-and-lilac graphic panel, layered over a white panelled cotton poplin shirt, black compression tights with mismatched ankle cuffs, and black sandals.Look 05 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a white panelled cotton poplin shirt, black compression tights with mismatched ankle cuffs, and black sandals.
5.0
Look 05
5.1
Printed DB racing jacket
5.2
Panelled cotton poplin shirt
5.3
Compression tights
Look 06 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a white panelled cotton poplin Hawaiian shirt layered over a cream graphic cashmere mock turtleneck, styled with indigo-dyed light denim jeans and black sandals.Look 06 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a cream short-sleeve cashmere mock turtleneck with an abstract blue-and-beige graphic, indigo-dyed light denim jeans, and black sandals.
6.0
Look 06
6.1
Panelled cotton poplin Hawaiian
6.2
Mongolian cashmere mock turtleneck
6.3
Indigo-dyed Japanese denim jeans
Look 07 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a blue, yellow, black, and white graphic compression raglan top with checkerboard sleeve detail, black compression tights with mismatched ankle cuffs, and black sandals.
7.0
Look 07
7.1
Compression tech tee
7.2
Compression tights
Look 08 from the SS20 lineup, featuring an indigo-dyed denim jumpsuit layered over a purple compression raglan top with checkerboard sleeve detail, neon cuffs, and black sandals.
8.0
Look 08
8.1
Indigo-dyed Japanese denim jumpsuit
8.2
Compression raglan tee
Look 09 from the SS20 lineup, featuring an indigo-dyed denim shirt layered over a black flight vest, styled with white water-repellent cuffed trousers and black sandals.Look 09 from the SS20 lineup, featuring an indigo-dyed denim shirt layered over a black flight vest, white water-repellent cuffed trousers, and black sandals.
9.0
Look 09
9.1
Indigo-dyed Japanese denim shirt
9.2
Flight vest
9.3
Water-repellent cuffed trousers
Look 10 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a graphic compression tech T-shirt with checkerboard sleeve detail, beige hybrid twill trousers, and black sandals.
10.0
Look 10
10.1
Compression tech tee
10.2
Hybrid twill trousers
Look 11 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a sunburn-effect French jersey printed T-shirt, white water-repellent jeans, and black sandals.
11.0
Look 11
11.1
French jersey printed tee
11.2
Water-repellent jeans
Look 12 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a beige printed mackintosh layered over a black floral cashmere intarsia T-shirt, styled with dark wool cuffed trousers and black sandals.Look 12 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a black short-sleeve cashmere intarsia T-shirt with a muted green floral graphic, dark wool cuffed trousers, and black sandals.
12.0
Look 12
12.1
Printed mackintosh
12.2
Mongolian cashmere intarsia tee
12.3
Wool cuffed trousers
Look 13 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a translucent all-weather field coat layered over a grey cashmere T-shirt and tailored wool shorts, styled with black compression tights with purple side stripes, neon ankle cuffs, and black sandals.Look 13 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a grey Mongolian cashmere T-shirt, grey tailored wool shorts, black compression tights with purple side stripes and neon ankle cuffs, and black sandals.
13.0
Look 13
13.1
All-weather field coat
13.2
Mongolian cashmere tee
13.3
Tailored wool shorts
Look 14 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a pale lavender waxed field coat layered over a beige water-repellent safari shirt and matching safari shorts, styled with black sandals.Look 14 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a beige water-repellent safari shirt, matching beige water-repellent safari shorts, and black sandals.
14.0
Look 14
14.1
Waxed field coat
14.2
Water-repellent safari shirt
14.3
Water-repellent safari shorts
3.1 Collection lineup with layered breakdown.
INTERACTIVE

VISUAL LANGUAGE

A dreamy, artificial aesthetic.

Making sense of the unknown.

The print direction focused on both the psychological impulses of superstition and the physical consequences that follow.

To keep the graphic treatment from feeling ominous, these rituals were simplified into hard-edged graphics rendered in acid brights and muted tones. A trompe l’œil stick-and-poke print then takes us to the aftermath, showing what gets left behind when you act on that urge.

Show close-up
Model wearing the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 graphic compression set featuring a checkerboard sleeve, illustrated panel, and black raglan tights.
4.1 Graphic print detail (Look 07).
INTERACTIVE
Show close-up
Model wearing the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 nude long-sleeve top with white trousers and black sandals.
4.2 Stick-and-poke print detail (Look 11).
INTERACTIVE

TECHNICAL FABRICATION

Doing it right meant doing it differently.

Leveraging specialized manufacturing.

Early on, we realized most cut-and-sew factories aren’t set up to produce true compression gear. And sourcing the right performance knits ourselves meant taking on huge minimums.

Instead of trying to build that infrastructure from scratch, I partnered directly with Verge Sport. Working through their supply chain provided direct access to thermoregulating warp-knits and consistent print alignment—bypassing the financial risk of custom milling.

PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 long sleeve raglan tech tee shown as a product render beside a detailed garment specification sheet with purple landscape graphics, checkerboard sleeve artwork, and technical pattern views.
5.1 Compression raglan tee spec sheet.
IMAGE
Integrating technical performance.

Heritage workwear fabrics come with functional trade-offs: waxed cotton requires regular re-proofing to stay water-repellent, and selvedge denim is prone to blowouts in high-wear areas.

Across the collection, I addressed these drawbacks by integrating performance textiles like weather-resistant polyamide and high-tenacity ripstop. These choices preserved the classic silhouettes while eliminating the need for routine maintenance.

Show close-up
Model wearing the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 translucent white technical field coat over grey base layers, styled with black leggings featuring neon cuff details.
5.2 Field coat in weather-resistant polyamide.
INTERACTIVE
Show close-up
Model wearing the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 light blue technical denim jumpsuit with a black zip pocket, layered over a purple and lilac compression tee, styled with black sandals and a white paracord accessory.
5.3 Jumpsuit reinforced with high-tenacity ripstop.
INTERACTIVE
Going straight to the source.

To physicalize the superstitious gesture of crossing your fingers, the capture method had to be as immediate as the impulse itself. By utilizing structured-light scanning, I was able to freeze that split-second reflex in real time.

From there, we rebuilt the raw scan into a production-ready CAD file for our casting partners in Germany. With all revisions handled digitally in-house, we avoided the slow wax-carving iterations and significantly tightened our sampling timeline.

PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 technical scan capture showing a 3D hand model in scan-color mode, with visible mesh gaps, point-cloud artifacts, and interface controls from the digital reconstruction process.
4.4 Structured-light scan capture.
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PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 technical CAD model of a fingers crossed charm shown in the blender viewport.
4.5 Production-ready CAD model.
IMAGE

SHOW PRODUCTION

Taking things a step further.

Gamifying the physical touchpoints.

Traditional runway invitations deliver information, but they rarely invite participation.

To break from this passive format, we produced the RSVP as a scratch-off lottery ticket packaged with blind sets of die-cut stickers.

This turned the invitation into a small game of luck—introducing the collection’s theme of chance before the show even began.

PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 scratch card show invitation and fold-out die cut stickers featuring 3D looks and individual garments and accessories.
6.1 Scratch-off invite and sticker pack.
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Nothing left behind.

Given our presentation’s temporary nature, we couldn’t justify building a set just to throw it away. Instead, we packed the venue with thousands of individually tagged flowers for guests to pick and build into their own bouquets.

PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 show production hangtag featuring layered translucent and embossed paper tags with clover-shaped detailing, string, pin, and QR-code texture on a black background.
6.2 Floral hangtag.
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6.3 SS20 motion concept.
VIDEO LOOP
PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 show production floral installation with abundant flowers, café chairs, and a raw concrete interior arranged as an immersive presentation space.
6.4 Showspace interior.
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Mobilizing the presentation.

The idea wasn’t to just send guests off with flowers, but to share a part of the presentation people would actually want to be seen leaving with.

In doing so, what might have otherwise ended at the venue naturally carried across the city and onto social feeds.

6.5 Social reactions.
VIDEO LOOP

RETROSPECTIVE

Things got busy, fast.

Channeling the momentum.

The collection generated strong industry interest ahead of market week, leading to showroom appointments and early orders that made SS20 a breakthrough wholesale season.

Visibility from the presentation translated into an estimated €80K in Earned Media Value, garnered press coverage, and landed two global stockists by the close of the sell-in.

PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 press coverage featuring Schön! and HYPEBEAST editorial screenshots with selected quotes about the collection.
7.1 Press coverage.
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Project takeaways:

  • Autonomy scales better than control

    Providing a clear creative vision and stepping back gave our production partners the space to execute their best work.

  • Commitment should be voluntary

    Leading with genuine value without forcing an upfront transaction established trust—making people far more likely to become advocates on their own.

  • Touchpoints are exports, not souvenirs

    Anticipating where people would go next helped build touchpoints that naturally traveled with them.

  • Participation creates ownership

    Giving people a small action to take shifted them from spectators to participants—turning passive attention into real care.

Next: Autumn / Winter 19
PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 collection overview showing top-view product looks, outfit labels, and the project concept layout for What We Put On to Go Outside.