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PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 collection overview showing top-view product looks, outfit labels, and the project concept layout for What We Put On to Go Outside.

AW19 Menswear

What We Put On to Go Outside
Scope
Concept Development Print Design Garment Construction Styling Creative Direction Campaign Art Direction
Team
Zheqiang Zhang, Creative Director & Lead Designer Longfei Wang, Photography & Film Georgios Flokas, Model Ludwig Schimdt, Model
Timeline & Status

5 Months, Launched in February 2019

Recognition

Euro Fashion Award — 1st Prize
International Lab of Mittelmoda — Origin Special Award

Overview

Traditional menswear is bound by rigid codes and slow, linear development cycles. What We Put On to Go Outside sought to rework these formal traditions without being bottlenecked by standard sampling timelines.

Delivering the project demanded end-to-end ownership over the collection’s creative and technical execution—driving the development of a custom 3D workflow to redefine the prototyping process and bypass physical production delays.

The collection’s debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week was met with strong commercial reception, ultimately securing top-tier industry awards for successfully bridging digital innovation with physical craftsmanship.

HIGHLIGHTS

A compact eight-look wardrobe combining classical tailoring techniques with an in-house 3D workflow to accelerate iteration speed while preserving craft-level finishing.

Eight menswear looks from PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, combining tailoring, outerwear, and technical construction.
0.1 Full lineup.
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3D product development workflow for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, showing a virtual garment prototype, print-management board, and generated design variations.
0.2 Custom 3D pipeline.
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3D composition study for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, showing repeated rear-view digital looks arranged in a staggered all-over composition.
0.3 3D composition study.
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Model in a blue tailored jacket with a functioning sleeve vent, photographed in chiaroscuro lighting for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.
0.4 Surgeon’s cuff detail.
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Model wearing a black short-sleeve intarsia knit top with dark green floral graphics from PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020.
0.5 Vase clutch (object).
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Model wearing an all-black PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 look standing inside a floral installation during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
0.6 AW19 Copenhagen Fashion Week.
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Guest holding a bouquet inside the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 floral installation during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
0.7 Kaltblut magazine editorial campaign.
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0.8 Ways to Wear a Scarf video campaign.
VIDEO LOOP
Guest holding a bouquet inside the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 floral installation during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
0.9 Under Pressure stills campaign.
IMAGE

CONTEXT

Built on tension and contrast.

Composure meets distortion.

This collection drew on the contrast between two very different painterly languages: the composed stillness of Rembrandt and the frantic energy of Francis Bacon.

The goal was to translate the physical act of painting into the garment construction itself. A raised jacquard was developed to evoke heavy brushwork, while needle-punching introduced an erratic texture across the fabric surface.

Hand scratching a PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 lottery-style show invite with a one-euro coin.
1.1 Rembrandt’s portrait of Maerten Soolmans.
IMAGE
Silver cornicello charm necklace worn over a black t-shirt.
1.2 Custom jacquard developed with a heritage Dutch mill.
IMAGE

CONSTRAINTS

Moving fast without breaking craft.

A tight calendar, held to a finishing standard.

Traditional tailoring typically operates on a slower timeline with linear sign-offs. This collection however, was developed under a compressed calendar, with limited sampling capacity and supplier constraints.

As a result, decisions had to be locked in earlier, and every revision had to justify its cost in time and fabrication.

Four and a half month project timeline showing overlapping phases from concept development through show production.
2.1 Project timeline.
IMAGE
Prototyping in the digital space.

A custom 3D workflow was developed in-house to test proportions, layering, and print placement digitally. This kept iteration fast before ever committing to a physical sample.

Custom 3D development workflow showing a garment prototype in Blender alongside technical views for PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020.
2.2 Custom 3D development environment.
IMAGE

THE LINEUP

Prioritizing visual clarity.

Giving each look room to breathe.

Heavy surface details and complex layering can quickly become exhausting if shown back-to-back.

Spacing restrained looks between those denser moments kept the pacing varied, ensuring the standout pieces retained their impact.

Show base layers
Look 01 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a grey double-breasted racing jacket with matching wide-leg pleated trousers, layered over a purple cashmere T-shirt and styled with black sandals.Look 01 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a purple short-sleeve cashmere knit top, grey wide-leg pleated trousers, and black sandals.
1.0
Look 01
1.1
DB racing jacket
1.2
Mongolian cashmere tee
1.3
Double pleated wide trousers
Look 02 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a black cotton poplin Hawaiian shirt and black water-repellent ripstop shorts, layered over a purple graphic compression raglan T-shirt and styled with black sandals.Look 02 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a purple graphic compression T-shirt with checkerboard sleeve detail, black water-repellent ripstop shorts, and black sandals.
2.0
Look 02
2.1
Cotton poplin Hawaiian
2.2
Compression raglan tee
2.3
Water-repellent ripstop shorts
Look 03 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a lavender, black, and grey printed silk-cotton Hawaiian shirt, black double-pleated wide trousers, and black sandals.
3.0
Look 03
3.1
Printed silk / cotton Hawaiian
3.2
Double pleated wide trousers
Look 04 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a purple graphic compression raglan T-shirt, black compression tights with neon ankle cuffs, and black sandals.
4.0
Look 04
4.1
Compression raglan tee
4.2
Compression tights
Look 05 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a black printed double-breasted racing jacket with a green-and-lilac graphic panel, layered over a white panelled cotton poplin shirt, black compression tights with mismatched ankle cuffs, and black sandals.Look 05 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a white panelled cotton poplin shirt, black compression tights with mismatched ankle cuffs, and black sandals.
5.0
Look 05
5.1
Printed DB racing jacket
5.2
Panelled cotton poplin shirt
5.3
Compression tights
Look 06 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a white panelled cotton poplin Hawaiian shirt layered over a cream graphic cashmere mock turtleneck, styled with indigo-dyed light denim jeans and black sandals.Look 06 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a cream short-sleeve cashmere mock turtleneck with an abstract blue-and-beige graphic, indigo-dyed light denim jeans, and black sandals.
6.0
Look 06
6.1
Panelled cotton poplin Hawaiian
6.2
Mongolian cashmere mock turtleneck
6.3
Indigo-dyed Japanese denim jeans
Look 07 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a blue, yellow, black, and white graphic compression raglan top with checkerboard sleeve detail, black compression tights with mismatched ankle cuffs, and black sandals.
7.0
Look 07
7.1
Compression tech tee
7.2
Compression tights
Look 08 from the SS20 lineup, featuring an indigo-dyed denim jumpsuit layered over a purple compression raglan top with checkerboard sleeve detail, neon cuffs, and black sandals.
8.0
Look 08
8.1
Indigo-dyed Japanese denim jumpsuit
8.2
Compression raglan tee
Look 09 from the SS20 lineup, featuring an indigo-dyed denim shirt layered over a black flight vest, styled with white water-repellent cuffed trousers and black sandals.Look 09 from the SS20 lineup, featuring an indigo-dyed denim shirt layered over a black flight vest, white water-repellent cuffed trousers, and black sandals.
9.0
Look 09
9.1
Indigo-dyed Japanese denim shirt
9.2
Flight vest
9.3
Water-repellent cuffed trousers
Look 10 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a graphic compression tech T-shirt with checkerboard sleeve detail, beige hybrid twill trousers, and black sandals.
10.0
Look 10
10.1
Compression tech tee
10.2
Hybrid twill trousers
Look 11 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a sunburn-effect French jersey printed T-shirt, white water-repellent jeans, and black sandals.
11.0
Look 11
11.1
French jersey printed tee
11.2
Water-repellent jeans
Look 12 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a beige printed mackintosh layered over a black floral cashmere intarsia T-shirt, styled with dark wool cuffed trousers and black sandals.Look 12 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a black short-sleeve cashmere intarsia T-shirt with a muted green floral graphic, dark wool cuffed trousers, and black sandals.
12.0
Look 12
12.1
Printed mackintosh
12.2
Mongolian cashmere intarsia tee
12.3
Wool cuffed trousers
Look 13 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a translucent all-weather field coat layered over a grey cashmere T-shirt and tailored wool shorts, styled with black compression tights with purple side stripes, neon ankle cuffs, and black sandals.Look 13 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a grey Mongolian cashmere T-shirt, grey tailored wool shorts, black compression tights with purple side stripes and neon ankle cuffs, and black sandals.
13.0
Look 13
13.1
All-weather field coat
13.2
Mongolian cashmere tee
13.3
Tailored wool shorts
Look 14 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a pale lavender waxed field coat layered over a beige water-repellent safari shirt and matching safari shorts, styled with black sandals.Look 14 from the SS20 lineup, featuring a beige water-repellent safari shirt, matching beige water-repellent safari shorts, and black sandals.
14.0
Look 14
14.1
Waxed field coat
14.2
Water-repellent safari shirt
14.3
Water-repellent safari shorts
3.1 Collection lineup with layered breakdown.
INTERACTIVE

COLOR PALETTE

Holding visual complexity in check.

A palette built for prints, not around them.

Dutch Baroque painters often worked with controlled palettes, using saturated color sparingly for moments of emphasis. That same logic was applied here: a vivid blue anchored the collection, while the rest of palette stayed neutral to support prints and layered elements.

By defining color hierarchy early on, textures and imagery could become denser without overwhelming the viewer.

Four and a half month project timeline showing overlapping phases from concept development through show production.
4.1 Color palette exploration.
IMAGE

SILHOUETTE & CONSTRUCTION

Structured, precise, and finished by hand.

Rethinking the foundational base.

Looks were developed from the inside out. Each base outfit was styled as a complete, standalone look before any outer layers were introduced.

Show base outfit
Model wearing the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 graphic compression set featuring a checkerboard sleeve, illustrated panel, and black raglan tights.
5.1 Layering example (Look 06).
INTERACTIVE
Show base outfit
Model wearing the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 nude long-sleeve top with white trousers and black sandals.
5.2 Layering example (Look 07).
INTERACTIVE
Engineered print placement.

Prints were mapped to each pattern piece so the key motifs landed on the right panels. Resolving these placements early on freed up the rest of development to focus on fit and construction, rather than revisiting graphic decisions as the garment moved towards production.

Show print placement
Model wearing the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 nude long-sleeve top with white trousers and black sandals.
5.3 Print placement map (jacquard shirt).
INTERACTIVE
Finishing held to a bespoke standard.

Hand finishing gave the garments something machine work simply couldn’t replicate. Details like distressed lapel edges had to be done by hand, while closures and attachment points were constructed using classic tailoring techniques chosen for their functionality and durability.

The result was an understated luxury carried by craftsmanship.

Show finishing details
Model wearing the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 graphic compression set featuring a checkerboard sleeve, illustrated panel, and black raglan tights.
5.4 Finishing details (Look 02).
INTERACTIVE
Show finishing details
Model wearing the PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 nude long-sleeve top with white trousers and black sandals.
5.4 Finishing details (Look 02).
INTERACTIVE

ACCESSORIES

More than just an afterthought.

Scarves as a focused case study.

Four scarf prints were developed across four formats: large square, small square, diamond, and tie. Each design was recomposed for its format rather than simply scaled down.

The artworks combined hand-drawn elements with digital collage and were intentionally asymmetrical. This meant that folding and tying the same piece produced different visual outcomes.

Finishing techniques were adapted to each format: squares and diamonds used a hand-rolled roulotté (à la française), while ties were sewn, turned, and hand-closed for a clean, concealed finish.

PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 long sleeve raglan tech tee shown as a product render beside a detailed garment specification sheet with purple landscape graphics, checkerboard sleeve artwork, and technical pattern views.
6.1 Scarf formats, hand-drawn details, and finishing.
IMAGE

CAMPAIGNS

One collection — three radically different visual directions.

Cinematic intervention.

Produced for Kaltblut magazine, this series drew upon Copenhagen’s nocturnal landscape to establish a high-contrast visual language.

The art direction leveraged found neon and industrial light sources to build a high-saturation backdrop. A neutral key light separated the subjects from the surrounding color spill.

This technical shift ensured garment color accuracy while preserving atmospheric depth within a complex urban setting, pushing the series beyond documentary street photography into a more cinematic, directed narrative.

PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 scratch card show invitation and fold-out die cut stickers featuring 3D looks and individual garments and accessories.
7.1 Editorial still (Duo).
IMAGE
PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 show production hangtag featuring layered translucent and embossed paper tags with clover-shaped detailing, string, pin, and QR-code texture on a black background.
7.2 Editorial still (Malik).
IMAGE
PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 show production hangtag featuring layered translucent and embossed paper tags with clover-shaped detailing, string, pin, and QR-code texture on a black background.
7.3 Editorial still (Viggo).
IMAGE
PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 scratch card show invitation and fold-out die cut stickers featuring 3D looks and individual garments and accessories.
7.4 Editorial still (Malik).
IMAGE
Physical abstraction.

Under Pressure was a technical series that physicalized the collection’s tension between precise composition and chaotic distortion.

By compressing subjects against a rigid barrier, facial features flattened, turning conventional portraiture into raw anatomical abstraction.

The lighting setup was carefully calibrated to eliminate reflections, allowing the distortion to be captured entirely in-camera without digital intervention.

PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 show production hangtag featuring layered translucent and embossed paper tags with clover-shaped detailing, string, pin, and QR-code texture on a black background.
7.5 Campaign still (Georgios).
IMAGE
PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 show production hangtag featuring layered translucent and embossed paper tags with clover-shaped detailing, string, pin, and QR-code texture on a black background.
7.6 Campaign still (Ludwig).
IMAGE
Contextual displacement.

Ways to Wear a Scarf was a social-first series that took the “how-to” tutorial format and pushed it into exaggerated use cases.

To disrupt rapid scroll behavior, the art direction leaned heavily into deadpan humor and unconventional casting. Placing the accessory in unexpected or absurd environments took it a step further—naturally extending the product narrative beyond standard runway archetypes.

7.7 Social short (Poolside).
VIDEO LOOP
7.8 Social short (Acupuncture).
VIDEO LOOP

RETROSPECTIVE

Bringing it to the main stage.

The ultimate stress test.

The collection was presented during Copenhagen Fashion Week, where it caught the attention of international press and secured commercial orders from buyers.

Taking home 1st Prize at the Euro Fashion Award and the Origin Special Award at Mittelmoda proved that a 3D-first workflow could successfully scale without sacrificing craftsmanship.

PSEUDONYM Spring Summer 2020 press coverage featuring Schön! and HYPEBEAST editorial screenshots with selected quotes about the collection.
8.1 Press coverage.
IMAGE

Project takeaways:

  • Finding opportunities within constraints

    Designing around limitations often requires lateral workarounds that end up solving entirely different problems downstream.

  • Innovation should protect craft

    Adopting digital workflows isn’t about replacing traditional methods, but rather preserving the time and budget required to execute them properly.

  • Broad knowledge bridges disciplines

    Guiding a project across completely different fields requires fluency in the distinct technical languages of everyone building it.

  • Context drives perception

    The visual narrative built around a collection shapes its perception just as much as the garments themselves.

Next: Stream of Consciousness
PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 collection overview showing top-view product looks, outfit labels, and the project concept layout for What We Put On to Go Outside.