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PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 collection overview showing top-view product looks, outfit labels, and the project concept layout for What We Put On to Go Outside.

AW19 Menswear

What We Put On to Go Outside
Scope
Concept Development Print Design Garment Construction Styling Creative Direction Campaign Art Direction
Team
Zheqiang Zhang, Creative Director & Lead Designer Longfei Wang, Photography & Film Georgios Flokas, Model Ludwig Schmidt, Model
Timeline & Status

5 Months, Launched in February 2019

Recognition

Euro Fashion Award — 1st Prize
International Lab of Mittelmoda — Origin Special Award

Overview

Traditional menswear is bound by rigid codes and slow, linear development cycles. What We Put On to Go Outside sought to rework these formal traditions without being bottlenecked by standard sampling timelines.

Delivering the project demanded end-to-end ownership over the collection’s creative and technical execution—driving the development of a custom 3D workflow to redefine the prototyping process and bypass physical production delays.

The collection’s debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week was met with strong commercial reception, ultimately securing top-tier industry awards for successfully bridging digital innovation with physical craftsmanship.

HIGHLIGHTS

A compact eight-look wardrobe combining classical tailoring techniques with an in-house 3D workflow to accelerate iteration speed while preserving craft-level finishing.

Eight menswear looks from PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, combining tailoring, outerwear, and technical construction.
0.1 Full lineup.
IMAGE
3D product development workflow for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, showing a virtual garment prototype, print-management board, and generated design variations.
0.2 Custom 3D pipeline.
IMAGE
3D composition study for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, showing repeated rear-view digital looks arranged in a staggered all-over composition.
0.3 3D composition study.
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Model in a blue tailored jacket with a functional sleeve vent, photographed in chiaroscuro lighting for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.
0.4 Surgeon’s cuff detail.
IMAGE
Close-up of a tailored jacquard jacket with contrast turnback cuffs and a clear plexiglass vase clutch encasing dried flowers from PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.
0.5 Vase clutch (object).
IMAGE
Model walking the runway in a tucked black double-breasted jacket, pleated jacquard trousers, and clear plexiglass vase accessory from PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.
0.6 AW19 Copenhagen Fashion Week.
IMAGE
Two models wearing PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 against neon signage, featuring a jacquard shirt with pleated trousers and a tailored jacket over a printed silk twill shirt and shorts.
0.7 Kaltblut magazine editorial campaign.
IMAGE
0.8 Ways to Wear a Scarf video campaign.
VIDEO LOOP
Model in a cyan coat and silk scarf from PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, face compressed against a rigid barrier for the Under Pressure campaign.
0.9 Under Pressure stills campaign.
IMAGE

CONTEXT

Built on tension and contrast.

Composure meets distortion.

This collection drew on the contrast between two very different painterly languages: the composed stillness of Rembrandt and the frantic energy of Francis Bacon.

The goal was to translate the physical act of painting into the garment construction itself. A raised jacquard was developed to evoke heavy brushwork, while needle-punching introduced an erratic texture across the fabric surface.

Rembrandt’s full-length portrait of Maerten Soolmans, showing black formal dress, lace detailing, and chiaroscuro references.
1.1 Rembrandt’s portrait of Maerten Soolmans.
IMAGE
Close-up of custom woven jacquard fabric from PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, showing a painterly image inspired by Francis Bacon translated into textured cloth.
1.2 Custom jacquard developed with a heritage Dutch mill.
IMAGE

CONSTRAINTS

Moving fast without breaking craft.

A tight calendar, held to a finishing standard.

Traditional tailoring typically operates on a slower timeline with linear sign-offs. This collection however, was developed under a compressed calendar, with limited sampling capacity and supplier constraints.

As a result, decisions had to be locked in earlier, and every revision had to justify its cost in time and fabrication.

Five-month development timeline for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, showing overlapping phases from concept development through show production.
2.1 Project timeline.
IMAGE
Prototyping in the digital space.

A custom 3D workflow was developed in-house to test proportions, layering, and print placement digitally. This kept iteration fast before ever committing to a physical sample.

Custom 3D development workflow showing a digital garment prototype with technical front, side, and back views for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.
2.2 Custom 3D development environment.
IMAGE

THE LINEUP

Prioritizing visual clarity.

Giving each look room to breathe.

Heavy surface details and complex layering can quickly become exhausting if shown back-to-back.

Spacing restrained looks between those denser moments kept the pacing varied, ensuring the standout pieces retained their impact.

Show base layers
Look 01 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a cerulean blue tailored overcoat with a detachable puffer shell, layered over a silk twill shirt and matching knee-length shorts in a scanned bleach tie-dye ombré print, styled with white sneakers.Look 01 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a matching silk twill shirt and knee-length shorts in a scanned bleach tie-dye ombré print, styled with white sneakers.
1.0
Look 01
1.1
Tailored overcoat with detachable puffer shell
1.2
Printed silk twill shirt
1.3
Printed silk twill shorts
Look 02 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a double-breasted graphic jacquard racing jacket layered over a panelled silk shirt in a scanned bleach tie-dye ombré print, styled with a white nylon ripstop cap, beige wide-leg wool-cashmere trousers, and white sneakers.Look 02 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a panelled silk shirt in a scanned bleach tie-dye ombré print, styled with a white nylon ripstop cap, beige wide-leg wool-cashmere trousers, and white sneakers.
2.0
Look 02
2.1
Nylon ripstop cap
2.2
DB racing jacket
2.3
Printed silk panelled shirt
2.4
Wool-cashmere trousers
Look 03 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a white and beige needle-punched cotton-poplin shirt, charcoal pinstripe wool trousers, styled with a black wool twill cap, and white sneakers.Look 03 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a white and beige needle-punched cotton-poplin shirt, charcoal pinstripe wool trousers, styled with white sneakers.
3.0
Look 03
3.1
Wool twill cap
3.2
Needle-punched
cotton poplin shirt
3.3
Pinstripe wool
trousers
Look 04 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a white silk-wool crepe shirt with a contrasting beige forearm panel and matching knee-length shorts, styled with white sneakers.
4.0
Look 04
4.1
Silk-wool crepe shirt
4.2
Silk-wool crepe shorts
Look 05 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a cerulean blue ombré peacoat layered over a white wool knit turtleneck top, styled with a white nylon ripstop cap, graphic jacquard trousers, and white sneakers.Look 05 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a white merino wool knit turtleneck top, graphic jacquard trousers, styled with a white nylon ripstop cap, and white sneakers.
5.0
Look 05
5.1
Nylon ripstop cap
5.2
Ombre peacoat
5.3
Wool knit top
5.4
Jacquard trousers
Look 06 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a black double-breasted tailored jacket layered over a graphic jacquard shirt and matching pleated jacquard trousers, styled with a black wool twill cap and white sneakers.Look 06 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a graphic jacquard shirt and matching pleated jacquard trousers, styled with a black wool twill cap, and white sneakers.
6.0
Look 06
6.1
Wool twill cap
6.2
DB tailored jacket
6.3
Jacquard shirt
6.3
Pleated jacquard trousers
Look 07 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a black wool field coat layered over a cropped silk knit turtleneck top, styled with black zip-detail wool trousers, and white sneakers.Look 07 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a cropped silk knit turtleneck top, black zip-detail wool trousers, styled with white sneakers.
7.0
Look 07
7.1
Wool field coat
7.2
Cropped silk knit top
7.3
Zip-detail wool trousers
Look 08 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a gray pinstripe field jacket with a white detachable puffer liner, layered over a graphic printed work shirt, styled with a black wool twill cap, cerulean blue and black two-tone wool trousers, and white sneakers.Look 08 from the AW19 lineup, featuring a graphic printed work shirt, cerulean blue and black two-tone wool trousers, styled with a black wool twill cap, and white sneakers.
8.0
Look 08
8.1
Wool twill cap
8.2
Field jacket with detachable puffer liner
8.2
Printed work shirt
8.2
Two-tone wool trousers
3.1 Collection lineup with layered breakdown.
INTERACTIVE

COLOR PALETTE

Holding visual complexity in check.

A palette built for prints, not around them.

Dutch Baroque painters often worked with controlled palettes, using saturated color sparingly for moments of emphasis. That same logic was applied here: a vivid blue anchored the collection, while the rest of palette stayed neutral to support prints and layered elements.

By defining color hierarchy early on, textures and imagery could become denser without overwhelming the viewer.

Color palette development for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, showing a jacquard jacket prototype with swatches and garment variation views.
4.1 Color palette exploration.
IMAGE

SILHOUETTE & CONSTRUCTION

Structured, precise, and finished by hand.

Rethinking the foundational base.

Looks were developed from the inside out. Each base outfit was styled as a complete, standalone look before any outer layers were introduced.

Show base outfit
Model wearing a tucked black tailored jacket, silk scarf, black cap, and pleated jacquard trousers for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.Model wearing a matching jacquard shirt and pleated trousers with a silk scarf and black cap for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.
5.1 Layering example (Look 06).
INTERACTIVE
Show base outfit
Model wearing a black field coat over a cropped knit top, with slim black trousers and a silk scarf detail for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.Model wearing a cropped knit top, black wool tie, slim black trousers, and silk scarf for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.
5.2 Layering example (Look 07).
INTERACTIVE
Engineered print placement.

Prints were mapped to each pattern piece so the key motifs landed on the right panels. Resolving these placements early on freed up the rest of development to focus on fit and construction, rather than revisiting graphic decisions as the garment moved towards production.

Show print placement
PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 print-placement map for a jacquard shirt, showing a product sketch beside pattern pieces on a grid.
5.3 Print placement map (jacquard shirt).
INTERACTIVE
Finishing held to a bespoke standard.

Hand finishing gave the garments something machine work simply couldn’t replicate. Details like distressed lapel edges had to be done by hand, while closures and attachment points were constructed using classic tailoring techniques chosen for their functionality and durability.

The result was an understated luxury carried by craftsmanship.

Model wearing a tailored jacquard jacket, white cap with silk scarf ties, and wide beige trousers with annotated finishing details for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.Close-up finishing details from PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, showing exposed internal construction, jacquard fabric, buttons, and annotated cuff details.
5.4 Finishing details (Look 02).
INTERACTIVE
Show finishing details

Distressed lapel edge + Milanese buttonhole. Lapel edge worked by hand; buttonholes hand-stitched around a gimp core.

Hand-attached horn buttons with crow’s-foot stitch. Traditional hand-attachment stitch pattern finished with a thread shank.

ACCESSORIES

More than just an afterthought.

Scarves as a focused case study.

Four scarf prints were developed across four formats: large square, small square, diamond, and tie. Each design was recomposed for its format rather than simply scaled down.

The artworks combined hand-drawn elements with digital collage and were intentionally asymmetrical. This meant that folding and tying the same piece produced different visual outcomes.

Finishing techniques were adapted to each format: squares and diamonds used a hand-rolled roulotté (à la française), while ties were sewn, turned, and hand-closed for a clean, concealed finish.

Silk scarf format development for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019, showing a campaign portrait, print artwork layouts, and finished edge details.
6.1 Scarf formats, hand-drawn details, and finishing.
IMAGE

CAMPAIGNS

One collection — three radically different visual directions.

Cinematic intervention.

Produced for Kaltblut magazine, this series drew upon Copenhagen’s nocturnal landscape to establish a high-contrast visual language.

The art direction leveraged found neon and industrial light sources to build a high-saturation backdrop. A neutral key light separated the subjects from the surrounding color spill.

This technical shift ensured garment color accuracy while preserving atmospheric depth within a complex urban setting, pushing the series beyond documentary street photography into a more cinematic, directed narrative.

Two models wearing PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 against neon signage, featuring a printed silk panelled shirt and black tailored outerwear.
7.1 Editorial still (Duo).
IMAGE
Model wearing a cropped silk knit top and zip-detail wool trousers under blue and magenta neon lighting for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.
7.2 Editorial still (Malik).
IMAGE
Model wearing a double-breasted jacquard racing jacket in a green-lit editorial setting for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.
7.3 Editorial still (Viggo).
IMAGE
Model wearing black field coat over a cropped silk knit top under neon lighting for PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019.
7.4 Editorial still (Malik).
IMAGE
Physical abstraction.

Under Pressure was a technical series that physicalized the collection’s tension between precise composition and chaotic distortion.

By compressing subjects against a rigid barrier, facial features flattened, turning conventional portraiture into raw anatomical abstraction.

The lighting setup was carefully calibrated to eliminate reflections, allowing the distortion to be captured entirely in-camera without digital intervention.

Model in a blue cap, silk scarf, and needle-punched dress shirt, face compressed against a rigid barrier for the PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 Under Pressure campaign.
7.5 Campaign still (Georgios).
IMAGE
Model in a blue cap, silk scarf, and black double-breasted jacket, face compressed against a rigid barrier for the PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 Under Pressure campaign.
7.6 Campaign still (Ludwig).
IMAGE
Contextual displacement.

Ways to Wear a Scarf was a social-first series that took the “how-to” tutorial format and pushed it into exaggerated use cases.

To disrupt rapid scroll behavior, the art direction leaned heavily into deadpan humor and unconventional casting. Placing the accessory in unexpected or absurd environments took it a step further—naturally extending the product narrative beyond standard runway archetypes.

7.7 Social short (Poolside).
VIDEO LOOP
7.8 Social short (Acupuncture).
VIDEO LOOP

RETROSPECTIVE

Bringing it to the main stage.

The ultimate stress test.

The collection was presented during Copenhagen Fashion Week, where it caught the attention of international press and secured commercial orders from buyers.

Taking home 1st Prize at the Euro Fashion Award and the Origin Special Award at Mittelmoda proved that a 3D-first workflow could successfully scale without sacrificing craftsmanship.

PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 press coverage, featuring Vogue Italia and FashionUnited article screenshots with selected quotes about the collection.
8.1 Press coverage.
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Project takeaways:

  • Finding opportunities within constraints

    Designing around limitations often requires lateral workarounds that end up solving entirely different problems downstream.

  • Innovation should protect craft

    Adopting digital workflows isn’t about replacing traditional methods, but rather preserving the time and budget required to execute them properly.

  • Broad knowledge bridges disciplines

    Guiding a project across completely different fields requires fluency in the distinct technical languages of everyone building it.

  • Context drives perception

    The visual narrative built around a collection shapes its perception just as much as the garments themselves.

Next: Stream of Consciousness
PSEUDONYM Autumn Winter 2019 collection overview showing top-view product looks, outfit labels, and the concept layout for What We Put On to Go Outside.